Monday, December 24, 2012

Christmas in Germany...

With the excitement of Christmas before us, we are also sad to say good-bye to another wonderful Christmas market season here in Germany.  Nothing says "the holidays" like wooden stalls full of holiday gifts, traditional German food, and a hot cup of Gluhwein (turns out even the alcohol free versions aren't all that bad).  We couldn't wait for Advent so that all of the markets would go into full swing.  We had big plans with our friends to visit them ALL...ok, at least the ones within three hours of home.  Our goals might have been a tad bit optimistic this year, but we still had a nice holiday season and we really enjoyed the markets we did have the time to visit.

The weather always helps keep things exciting during "Christmas market" season.  You just never know what you are going to get.  Last year we were plagued with horrible, cold and nasty torrential rains.  This year, the weather was all over the map.  For most of the month of December though, our corner of the country was really cold, or at least it felt pretty nippy.  And now, the rain is back and the temperatures are downright balmy.  

Our favorite Weinachtsmarkt, hands down, is in Erfurt, which sits north east of us in Thuringia in the old part of East Germany.  The town is beautiful in and to itself, and it's a place we have placed on our map of must-see day trips when the weather warms up. We found this market last year and immediately fell in love. Aside from visiting the Weinachtsmarkt in our local town of Bamberg, Erfurt was first on our list.  We decided to visit another town that sits just 20 minutes east of Erfurt, called Weimar.  It's a really small town, so we knew the market would be quaint and quiet.  Weimar is actually the location of the very first public outdoor Christmas tree back in the early 1800s.  The Weimar Weinachtsmarkt was located in the center of town and it wound its way through pedestrian streets with rows of wooden stands.  It was a great market to start off our season.

the rides are always little r's favorite part of the markets
I like the food, of course!
Weimar Weinachsmart!  little r is so camera shy!
Life like traditional wooden pyramid at the entrance to the market
Weimar Weihnachtsmarkt
On one edge of the Weinachtsmarkt was an ice skating rink - we were sad we ran out of time
We left the sweet town of Weimar and geared up for fun in Erfurt.  Just like last year, parking was an exciting part of the adventure.  We managed to park on the other side of town this time and we were so glad that we did.  It turns out that last year we missed a large part of the Weinachtsmarkt that goes throughout the downtown portion of Erfurt!  The market is amazing and so full of life and people.  It was really, really cold that day, so once the sun went down, we all huddled close to keep warm.  We also visited the market on a Saturday evening this year, and holy cow were there a lot of people!  Because of the crowds and the cold, we skipped the ferris wheel this year, but we still managed to find some great rides for little r to enjoy.

So many people enjoying the market that day
The stars are always my favorite
The merchant's bridge in Erfurt was beautiful lit for the season
Everyone was keeping warm with gluhwein and tall glasses of red wine
Entrance to the Erfurter Weinachtsmarkt!
Such a picturesque market - we love it
The gorgeous cathedral makes for a stunning backdrop for the market
little r was giving some driving tips to his new buddy
Overview of the market from the steps of the Cathedral
So pretty - you can easily see why it's our favorite
The following weekend we decided to venture out on the train to see the Romantic Christmas market in Regensburg at the Thurn und Taxis Palace.  Regensburg is one of Germany's oldest towns dating back to 179 A.D.  We had heard nothing but amazing things about the Christmas markets there, and we were not disappointed.  I'm not sure we were quite prepared for the crazy crowds on the trains, but this time we were definitely prepared for the cold.  And man, was it cold that day...  Not only is the Weinachtsmarkt in Regensburg beautiful, but the town itself is something not to miss. The Romantic market is set inside the walls of the Palace and it's all lit up with torches to guide you through the maze of wooden stands. We were sure not to leave Regensburg without seeing the Regensburg Weinachtsmarkt as well.  Just like Erfurt, we can't recommend the markets in Regensburg enough.  

Center of the Palace - Romantic Christmas Market Regensburg
there was a tiny ride inside the palace
Romantic Christmas Market - Regensburg
Enjoying a chocolate covered, hazelnut Schneeball - little piece of heaven
Beautiful Cathedral
walking across the old stone bridge in Regensburg
on the old stone bridge - brrrr, it was SO cold!
beautiful Christmas tree in the center of one of the markets in Regensburg
Lucreziamarkt - artists and craftsman display all of their beautiful  handmade wares
handmade soaps and other special gifts were found at the Lucreziamarkt
Scene as the sun went down at Christkindlesmarkt Regensburg
As much as we love seeing the markets, we were surprised by how much the cold weather can take out of you especially with a toddler in tow.  The poor kid just didn't understand why we were fighting crowds to stand out in the cold and carry hot liquids.  If there wasn't a ride or he wasn't getting chocolate from St. Nick, then there was no reason to stay too long.  The weather turned from cold to wet and our lives got busy and we were fighting off colds.  So, we laid low for awhile, until the last day of the markets gave us an itch we just had to scratch.  

The weather was still a bit unpredictable, so we thought we'd keep it close to home and avoid heavy crowds.  So we ventured up to Coburg, which sits literally 30-40 minutes north of Bamberg.  It's a Bavarian town of royalty known for its Palace (or Veste), and the town center is actually quite beautiful.  The market was very small and quaint, but it was just what we were looking for.  We were able to enjoy one last afternoon and evening of gluhwein and wonderful German food before the Christmas season came to a close.  We even got to take little r for a carriage ride around town - lucky boy :) 

Entrance to the Weinachtsmarkt in Coburg - horse carriage and all
He LOVED this ride.  Gave us a high five every time he passed us.
Weinachtsmarkt Coburg
It was a little soggy that afternoon, but everyone seemed to enjoy it anyhow
we really loved the architecture throughout the old town of Coburg

St. Nickolaus giving away goodies = happy little r
beautiful Rathaus in Coburg at the edge of the square
Weinachtsmarkt in Coburg as the sun went down
little r enjoyed his carriage ride through town
...but I think he enjoyed sitting on the horse so much more :) 
More pictures of the old town - so pretty...
horses were taking a rest
final picture of town as we walked to the car 
So, it's time to get ready for Christmas day.  We made some incredible memories this holiday season as a family.  It's always difficult to be so far away from our families this time of year, but we are enjoying creating our own traditions.  Little r is so spoiled by everyone. Our tree is overflowing with gifts, and we are so excited for him to see what Santa brought him this year.  I've already eaten all the cookies left for Santa, and the carrots left for the reindeer. Oh, and the eggnog is gone, too - oops!  

Good night everyone, and Merry Christmas!!!  We hope your day is special in every way.  



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